Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Tales From A Fashion Industry Insider.

My career life of a graphic designer has taken me to some interesting clients over the years. But none more telling than the fashion industry. They are harboring some very dirty little secrets from the general public.

Did you know a 36C bra is considered plus size? That's right. Say goodbye to all the cute colors and lacy goodness after that size. God help you if you're approaching DD or DDD. Those only come in nude or rose. Oh, and that lower price? Buh-bye. Anything above the magic size os 36C "costs more to make."

Here's another good one, those size charts you see in lingerie changing rooms, the ones that tell you how to measure and what your size is? They haven't been updated in over 25 years. That's right, they are using the same sizing charts from when you're mother was probably bra shopping. And what's worse… so is the companies MAKING the bras. Bodies have changed drastically in the last 25 years, but an update is just not happening. It would cost too much money to change the forms of the bras.

Size 12 is considered plus size in the fashion industry. Yep. Size 12. What's still smaller than the national average for women is considered plus in fashion. (Size 14 is the national average.) All those models you see on the plus size sites and store windows, they're more than likely a whopping size 16 at the largest. (Casting calls are usually for size 12 or 14.) In fact, one model we used revealed that she "ballooned" to a 16 while she was six months pregnant during a photo shoot. Did I mention we were shooting her that day for a clothes spread?

Here's another kicker. All that extra money we pay for those sizes has very little to do with the extra fabric. In fact, that's overall a very small cost increase. They are making more profit on the clothes they sell to plus size women than they do to regular size. Not only that, but they aren't sized to plus size women. Those patterns are just increased by a percentage in inches. It still assumes the body shape of a smaller woman, just in proportion to what the size is. That's what leads to such drastically different fits in clothing.

In my time in the fashion industry, I saw more than a few market research groups conducted. All of the women fit a basic look and feel that more often than not, matched the ladies conducting the groups. It looked like a table full of clones. Not exactly a wide base of opinions either, I might add. Very rarely did I see a variety of body types sitting at those tables.

Now I realize not all of this applies to every company out there. There are clothing manufacturers that "get" the plus size customer. This is my reflections from the company that I worked with, while a very large conglomerate at the time, who shall remain nameless.

Here's what I know now. (And I wish I had known then.)

1. Even at my goal size, I'll still be "plus size."

2. Regardless of what these companies say about showing real women or varied body types in their campaigns or photo shoots, they are still way smaller than most of their target demographic.

3. You are not your size.

4. You are not your size.

That's right. I put the last one twice. No matter what the size is, it should fit your body. You aren't going to be a perfect 36D or size 16 across the board. It's impossible. Each company has their own secret formula for sizing and none of them are consistent. You can walk out of a department store with size 16 jeans, a size 20 work pant and a M top. It's completely possible. No matter what the number says on that tag, remember this:

You are not your size.

11 comments:

  1. I hate that stuff! And jeans! Don't get me started on jeans!! Or shoes? Ugh!

    When I was thin(ner), 5'9" and a size 7, I was a 34D or 34DD and it was a bear to find a cute bra, which was sucky because I was wooing Husband.

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  2. Great post! I read somewhere that the model that won America's Next Top Model as a 'plus sized' model was like an 8 or a 10. WHATEVER.

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  3. Thanks for posting. I've started to look at clothing manufacturer's size charts online and I'm still find a huge difference between the size they suggest you order and the size you really fit into. It's driving me nuts.

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  4. xoxo

    I'm in a difficult place size-wise. I can't find Tall jeans in my size. I'm bridging that gap between plus size and 'regular' sizes. I'm 14-18 depending on the time of month, phase of the moon and current stress level. Unfortunately as soon as I get into about size 16, the Tall sizes disappear.

    What.

    Tall women don't gain weight?

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  5. great post-something very few people realize!

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  6. Oh yeah. I worked in lingerie for a while, and had to be trained to perform bra fittings, and ended up getting fitted myself a number of times in the process. No two people EVER came up with the same size. Not once.

    I read once that Calvin Klein said he doesn't make clothes above a size 14 because "women shouldn't be above a size 14." WTF? I don't think he's met any real women.

    There's no standard. There's no consistency. It's ridiculous.

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  7. Thanks for the great post. I know I really get hung up on size a lot of times, and I am definitely going to think about this the next time I'm clothes shopping and get down about what size I'm in.

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  8. What I hate the most is the assumption that all plus sized women have big breasts. I'm a +sized girl with a smaller chest! Tops that have darting or seams for the chest area NEVER fit. I would have to stuff two boxes of Kleenex in my bra to even come close!

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  9. Loved your post! I went shopping for slacks to wear to my nieces wedding last weekend and walked out with a 16W and a small sized sweater. Makes no sense! The pants had to be 16W in order to fit my hips and legs but were falling off my waist. I hate buying clothes, nothing fits right.

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  10. I had wanted to respond to this the other day and didn't get the chance! I love it and it's such an important message!!

    I wrote an article several years ago about getting a proper bra fitting. I went to a local boutique that specializes in bra fittings and carries sizes ranging from 28AA to 56JJ. And they carry pretty, colorful, lacy bras in all of those sizes (as well as more practical styles). And even then, different brands and styles will often not fit the same...meaning, for example, that I wear a 34 or 36, E , F, or FF. At least right now.

    This boutique also keeps a list, prominently displayed, of all the different sizes and how many different women wear each size...and there's at least one woman for every size on the chart...and the biggest percentage of women are not in what we consider the "normal" sizes. So there! :-)

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